![]() To decrease motion blur the fastest high speed shooting possible is desired. Then we use the highest possible frame rate to capture all three exposures. For these shots we enable AEB for three exposures (usually about 1.33 EV apart). Software can work very well to align your bracketed images (more later) so in many cases shooting HDR hand-held can work quite well. Using live view or mirror lockup can reduce camera shake when taking longer exposures.Use a remote if available or the camera's built-in timer.Sturdy tripod, heads, clamps and plates are needed.The photo below stressed the 30 second limit quite a bit.įor HDR a tripod is even more essential than with single shots, to avoid any movement between photos. Yes, I know long exposures can create noise, but many cameras work quite well beyond 30 second exposures. I don't believe there's a solid technical reason for this any more. All cameras we know of limit the maximum exposure time to 30 seconds.Limited the maximum number of bracketed shots to 3 photos (except in the higher priced cameras).We've pushed for change in our reviews for years but manufacturers have yet to take note. Limited maximum EV step of 1EV (in some cases it's limited to 2/3EV). ![]() Note: It's unfortunate that some camera manufacturers limit some features which would be useful to HDR photography: Here is how it looks on more recent Canon and Nikon cameras. Here the camera controls the exposures of all the shoots needed. Normally we rely on the camera's AEB (Auto Exposure Bracketing) feature. Depending on your personal shooting style you can then decide on whether to use a tripod or shoot the scene handheld. If the most overexposed photo of the set can't be taken without a tripod (without inducing motion blur), the only option is to use a good tripod or forget about HDR.Īfter analyzing the scene (which normally only takes a few seconds) you should know how many brackets to shoot.Your personal style of photography (tripods are stable but handheld gives you more flexibility).Two factors will help you decide wether to use a tripod or not: While highlight clipping should always be avoided it is your artistic decision how open the shadows should be. Note: These types of images only pay off if there is an artistic balance between the interior and exterior zones of the image.Īlways make sure you know how to capture the details in the highlights and how to get the shadow details you want. The use of a manual programmable remote control allows you to change the exposure time without moving the camera. In this situation a tripod is of course is a must. Dark room with detail in bright scene outside the windows: Indoors in low light you may need to bracket for 7 or more exposures.Dark rooms with some light through the windows: Here we usually take at least 5 bracketed shots with about 2EV apart.As with the photo above we often shoot these scenes handheld, because there is enough light to get a fast shutter speed (even for the overexposed image). In these cases a single middle exposure photo often works fine but bracketing for HDR can give you more options for nice highlights and open shadows. Midday sun with strong shadows: Take 3 shots at about 1 ~ 1.33 EV apart.Overcast: No HDR needed in most cases (unless you plan to show details in darker shadows).Of course bracketing shots uses more frames and so for fast action should always be turned off to increase responsiveness.Įvaluate the scene for the dynamic range you would like to capture. The first shot will be the normally exposed shot taken at the moment you hit the shutter. We always have the middle exposure as the first shot and have the option to just delete the other exposures later if we don't need them. We almost always shoot bracketed exposures. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |